Four days hiking the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, New Zealand
A golden trail through bush, beaches and bays
Four days. Three new friends. One unforgettable stretch of New Zealand coastline.
The Abel Tasman Coast Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and is both incredibly beautiful and enjoyable.
With golden beaches, winding forest trails, tidal estuary crossings, and cosy DOC huts hidden in the bush, the trail has a bit of everything. It encourages a slower pace, giving you time to take in the ever-changing scenery while still keeping each day interesting.
We started the track as three strangers who had only met the day before in Picton. But by the time we reached the end, we were sun-kissed, a little tired, and already sharing stories from the last few months of travel. All that was left to do was enjoy a good meal, a hot shower, and begin our road trip through the South Island.
The start of the Abel Tasman Track in Marahau
Day 1: Marahau to Anchorage (12.4km)
We left The Barn campsite in Marahau feeling fresh, with our packs loaded and in good vibes. From the very start of the trail, we were met with stunning views across the sea. Turquoise waters stretched out beneath a canopy of forest, the kind of coastline you’d expect to find in Greece or Italy rather than New Zealand.
The path was well-formed and easy to follow, hugging the coastline closely as it wound through native bush and shaded gullies. The sun was shining, the air was warm, and conditions were just about perfect for the days ahead.
Each day involved around four to five hours of walking, which gave us plenty of time to settle into the rhythm of the trail and get to know one another. As we made our way north, we shared stories from past adventures and chatted about the two-week road trip we had planned after the hike, travelling down the wild West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island.
That night we stayed at Anchorage Hut, one of the more modern DOC huts, with flushing toilets, water tanks, a kitchen shelter, and foam mattresses on the bunks, not bad for £30 a night. The best part about these huts is how quickly everyone settles in and gets to know each other.
Within half an hour we had a group of us playing Cameo, a card game that became a bit of a theme for the rest of the trip.
Day 2: Anchorage to Bark Bay (11.5km)
We were up early to catch the sunrise, and it didn’t disappoint. The soft morning light spilled across Anchorage Bay, casting long reflections over the still water. A handful of sailing boats floated quietly in the bay, their masts silhouetted against the glowing horizon. It was one of those slow, peaceful mornings that makes you stop and soak it all in.
We couldn’t help but imagine what life would be like aboard one of those boats, waking up to the sound of gentle waves, diving straight into the sea for a morning swim, and spending the day exploring this beautiful stretch of coastline. Not a bad way to live.
Anchorage Bay
We waited for the tide to drop before leaving Anchorage Bay, taking the low-tide estuary shortcut across the mudflats. Shoes off, trousers rolled, and a slow, squelchy plod through ankle-deep water and soft sand. There’s something quite grounding about starting the day barefoot, wading across a tidal inlet with your pack on your back and the sun already warming the air.
The section of trail between Anchorage and Bark Bay was varied and scenic. We followed forest tracks, crossed swing bridges, and passed small waterfalls tucked away in the bush. There were plenty of quiet viewpoints along the way where we paused for water breaks or just to take it all in.
By mid-afternoon, the heat had built and we were more than ready for a swim. The water at Bark Bay was cold, clear, and incredibly refreshing, especially after two days without a shower. We dried off in the sun and wandered up to the hut, salty, sandy, and completely content.
Bark Bay Hut had a more rustic feel than Anchorage, but what it lacked in polish, it made up for in character. That evening we played cards again, this time with a bigger group, a mix of travellers, gap year hikers, and older couples. It’s one of the best parts of hut life, the way people come together over shared meals, borrowed playing cards, and stories from the trail. For a night, it felt like we’d all known each other far longer than we had.
Day 3: Bark Bay to Awaroa (13.5km)
This was our longest stretch of the hike, so we set off early with the sun just beginning to filter through the trees. The trail meandered through dense native forest, winding its way along ridge lines and dipping into gullies, always with glimpses of the ocean flickering through the leaves.
It was easily the most scenic day so far. Every bend in the path seemed to offer a new viewpoint, wide, open bays, forest-covered hills rolling into the distance, and stretches of golden beach far below. The terrain was never too steep, but the undulating trail and back-to-back days of walking meant we were starting to feel it in our legs.
Despite the tired feet, there was a quiet rhythm to the day. The sound of birdsong, the crunch of boots on gravel, and the occasional stop to take in yet another postcard-perfect view made the kilometres pass quickly.
One of the day’s highlights was our stop at Onetahuti Beach. With its golden sand, warm water, and complete solitude, it felt like we had the place all to ourselves. We dropped our packs without a second thought, ran straight into the sea, and floated for a while, letting the calm waves carry us. It was one of those perfect mid-hike moments, pure relaxation and a chance to soak up the beauty around us before continuing on.
Views from the trail along the Abel Tasman Track
The stars above the Abel Tasman Track
We reached Awaroa Hut in the early evening, tired but content after a long day on the trail. Dinner was simple, freeze-dried meals and a hot chocolate. Not the most exciting feast, but it hit the spot.
That night, the stars were absolutely incredible.
We wandered down to the beach and just stood there in silence for a while, letting it all sink in. No phones, no light, no noise except the sound of the waves breaking on the shore. It was the clearest night sky I’ve seen since hiking up Kilimanjaro in January, a perfect reminder of why we come out here in the first place.
Day 4: Awaroa to Totaranui (then water taxi back)
Our final day was a short one, just 6 kilometres. We sat on the sand eating breakfast as we waited for the tide to recede enough to safely cross the estuary.
By 10am, the time had gone. Shoes off, trousers rolled up, we waded through ankle-deep water and sticky mud. Once on the other side, the last stretch to Totaranui was easy-going, the trail winding gently along the stunning coastline.
The adventure wrapped up with a water taxi back to Marahau, a fast, bumpy, wind-in-your-face ride that flew past all the bays we’d walked through over the last few days. It felt like the perfect full-circle moment.
Back at The Barn, we dropped our bags and headed to nearby Kaiteriteri for dinner at The Blue Whale, very happy to be eating something that wasn’t freeze-dried.
Looking back, the Abel Tasman was the perfect mix of effort and ease, no tents to carry, no crazy climbs, just beautiful coastal walking, good company, and great wild swim. If you’re heading to New Zealand’s South Island, this one’s worth making time for.
